I’ve been back since last Wednesday, but numerous mundane pressures have kept me from editing photos and sitting down long enough to write about the trip. So I’m doing what anyone in my shoes would do: I’m writing about it from work.
I’ve thought about and had internal debates over how to tell the story of my trip to Venezuela. I’ve settled on a variety of methods, from travelogue to list, that you, dear reader, will simply have to deal with.
First, a list of general impressions:
1. Caracas kind of sucks.
I fully expected the slums we saw on the 30-minute bus ride from Maiquetia’s Simon Bolivar International Airport into town, so that was no shock. It was the city itself. And it mostly stemmed from the people, who, how do I put this?…love to stare. Well, love is probably a poorly chosen word, because their stare faces are the blankest yet most judgmental things I’ve seen since…no, I’ve seen ever.
That said…
2. The Caracas Metro is amazing.
I’d also read about this, but experiencing it was something I couldn’t have prepared myself for. And in many ways, it comes as a shock because its redeeming qualities are so unlike the rest of the city.
It’s fast (train arrives, doors open, doors close, train leaves), frequent (never waited longer than three or four minutes for a train), clean, secure (trains and stations had security cameras), and cheap (a flat rate of roughly $0.25 US).
3. Moving around the country in a timely manner is neither cheap nor easy.
We found this out our second day, and ended up having to cancel a planned trip to Angel Falls. The infrastructure seems to be there, only there’s a deficit of willingness to use it. Or something like that…
4. Like most countries, political hostilities didn’t matter on a person-to-person basis.
I heard several Venezuelans claim that Chavez was just as crazy as Bush. Okay, I’ll go along with that.
5. Venezuelan food…eh.
Arepas really depend on what’s inside them. My first one had grilled chicked and queso a mano. Yum. The second one had cold-cut style ham and cheese. Not yum (which should have made it particularly non-devestating when I dropped it on the concrete floor of the Maracay bus terminal, but didn’t).
In El Playon (part of Parque Nacional Henri Pittier), we had cachapas. This my traveling companion wasn’t so keen on, though I’d like to blame her cab-ride-vertigo for that. It’s basically a sweetish corn pancake, typically made with cheese melted on the grill and served with some sort of meat. We had it with some of the best chorizo I’ve ever tried. Wow.
Still, all-in-all, the better food we had were things like spaghetti, ceviche, and pizza. Even the baked fish on Los Roques was mediocre.
Don’t go to this country to eat.
6. The stereotype of the “crazy” South American bus ride is based in reality.
We took several high-speed, tight-turning, brightly colored, Jesus and Virgin Mary-decorated rides, each with a different kind of music blaring from speakers, and each packed to the hilt (including a few of medium distance in which some riders stood).
I have to admire the fact that many of these buses don’t run on a timed schedule, but rather embark when full. There’s something horribly efficient about that, at least in a fuel conservation sense. We tend to think of “efficient” as something that saves time. Of course, that’s not the case when it comes to the buses. Other things are saved, but certainly not time.
7. Again, like many countries, the further you get from the city, the nicer people are.
We had pretty shitty times in Caracas and Valencia, the country’s third-largest city. But in Los Roques and Parque Nacional Henri Pittier, we met some of the nicest, most hospitable people. These people fed us, housed us, spoke broken English with us (at least they tried), and overall treated us like human beings, not impositions.
That’s all I can think of for now. Look for part two in the coming days, complete with some photos.