Tara and I drove up to Mendocino County a few weeks ago for some wine tasting and camping. Got winery recommendations from Brad at In Bottles, someone to whom I owe just about all the little I know about wine. How’s that for a complicated grammatical expression?
After the slightly-longer-than-two-hour drive up from San Francisco, we meandered down the windy state Route 128 off U.S. 101 toward Anderson Valley. Goldeneye was our first stop. This quaint estate is unorthodox as far as its tastings go, in that upon entering, you are greeted by a host who goes over the selection that day, then you’re told you can sit inside or out (depending, I’m sure, upon the weather), and your pours are brought to you on a tray along with berries, nuts, and cheese. You get your pours all at the same time. We tasted the Migration pinot rosé, the Migration pinot noir (2005), and Goldeneye pinot noir (2004). The Migration was perhaps the best-smelling wine ever, but something was lost on the taste. Not a bad wine, just smelled better than it tasted. The Migration Pinot rosé was our favorite, and we left the winery with a bottle of it.


From there it was on down 128 to Scharffenberger, makers of fine sparkling wines. I finally learned why Scharffen Berger chocolates uses two words in its name, despite the fact that John Scharffenberger’s name is, ahem, Scharffenberger. He used to own the winery, but sold it to make his now-famous chocolates. Because the wine’s label was trademarked, or what have you, he simply split the name for the chocolate into two word. Yep.
Scharffenberger’s sparkling wines are amazing, and that’s coming from someone who’s not crazy about sparkling wines. We left with a 2004 syrah, and a bottle of extra dry sparkling to save until New Year’s Eve.
Then we headed over to Handley Cellars. a quietish estate between Philo and Navarro. It was late in the day, and I’m relying entirely on my notes now. A “fair” viognier from Dry Creek in Sonoma County seems to have started things off, followed by a “good” Anderson Valley pinot noir. Zinfandel grapes grown above the fogline on Mendocino Ridge go into a bold wine that I appreciated. Never had “fogline” wine before, to my knowledge. My notes for the zin say “good, but …” The chardonnay was “2/3 oaked, and you can tell. I no likes.” From your sophisticated wine reviewer.
It sounds worse than it was. We left with a bottle of the Mendocino Ridge zin (2005) and the Anderson Valley pinot gris (2006), which I don’t remember tasting, nor do I have notes for (who snuck that into my box?).
We drove from there down a sleepy 128 to 1 and up north to spend the night in a tent at MacKerricher State Park. A nice little park, with beach access.
Next morning, we stopped for breakfast at Eggheads in Fort Bragg, complete with its Wizard of Oz theme. When asked to be pointed the bathroom there, I was told, of course, to “follow the yellow brick road.”
We started Saturday off at Husch, whose surrounding vineyards were beautiful.
Husch was offering 12 wines for tasting that day, so we meandered our way down the list, getting alternating pours of every wine. From the notes:
2006 Sauvignon blanc: fruit. One bottle taken with us.
2005 Renegade SB: earthy.
2005 Special Reserve Chardonnay: medicine.
2006 Gewürtzraminer: juice.
2006 Vin gris of pinot noir: eh
2005 AV (Anderson Valley) pinot noir: metal, but good, sharp.
2005 Reserve AV pinot: flat, better than previous pinot. tastes more like the grape itself.
2004 Cabernet sauvignon: bold, clove.
2003 Grand Oz (an odd coincidence, considering our breakfast?): best red, tastes like good wine (but costs a prohibitive $55 per bottle.
2006 Chenin blanc: subtle, delicious. One bottle taken with us.
2006 Muscat Canelli: round, sweet but not too.
2005 Postre late harvest sauvignon blanc*: yum. One bottle taken with us.
* It was with this wine that I learned what botrytis is. Namely, it is a so-called noble rot that sucks moisture out of the grape, leaving behind a more sugary taste.
We left Husch with our three bottles and headed down the road to Navarro, perhaps the best winery I have ever been to.
We ended up leaving with six bottles, including (in no certain order) a white Riesling, 2005 pinot noir, 2006 pinot grigio, 2005 muscat blanc, a 2005 late harvest riesling, and 2005 late harvest muscat blanc. I’m sorry, I don’t have notes and it’s been too long. I just remember being blown away by all the wines we bought, and fairly impressed by those we tasted but didn’t buy. There had to be a limit to what we left with, after all.
The grounds surrounding the winery were the most lush and gorgeous I’ve seen.
We finished the trip off at Roederer Estate, a place very proud to have had its wines served at several White House events during the Clinton years. We tasted several of Roederer’s sparkling wines, including a magnum, and I was happy, but not blown away. I did think their pinot noir was the best I had tasted in the valley, and I told our pourer as much. At this, he instructed us to visit Esterlina Winery, off the beaten path, and appointment only. He claims Esterline’s pinot is the best in the valley. We never made it to Esterlina (we’ll save that for the next trip), but we did leave Roederer with a bottle of their 2005 pinot noir.

My overall thoughts on AV wines: Though the valley is known for its pinot noirs, I was less-than-impressed. The Oregon coast remains my preferred pinot region, and Central Coast of California would be second preference. Between Scharffenberger and Roederer, I do like sparkling wines from this region. And based on the quantity of bottles we left with, Navarro still holds the distinction of most well-liked winery I’ve ever been to.
The scenery is also breathtaking in Anderson Valley. The people are down-to-earth and most tastings are free of charge, always a bonus.
And, at a mere two hours from San Francisco, I can see myself going back time and again.
* I’m having trouble sizing photos right now, but I hope to have some up to accompany this point in the near future.